House Training - "P is for Puppy". Do you remember how long it took you before you were potty trained? As a mom, I can tell you it does not
happen overnight. It takes vigilance, encouragement, patience, praise and
bribery. Just when it seems like diapers would be part of the cost of a college
education, the light seems to come on in a toddler’s head, and all that work
pays off. He or she is potty trained!
Training your puppy to use a special “toilet area” is a lot like that. It can take months before he can be trusted not to make mistakes. The more diligent and supportive you are, the faster he will learn. Your goal should be to avoid letting your puppy make a mistake. It’s a lot easier to teach a puppy what he should do than to teach him what he should not do. Although I assume you are going to train your puppy to go outdoors, this method works for any kind of housetraining; paper, litter box or outdoors; and will work for adult dogs, too.
It
is important to put your puppy on a feeding schedule. Write down the time he
eats and the time he poops. When you have a daily record of times, then you
will know what time you need to take him to his toilet area. You will also need
to take him out about 10 minutes after he has a drink of water. Take your puppy
out after a nap. After he has been playing, he will need to potty, too. Just
like little kids, puppies get so excited about playing they do not want to stop
and go to the bathroom. That is when accidents happen.
Puppies are easily distracted, so leaving him outside by himself just will not work. You need to stay with him so he can learn what it is you want him to do. You might want him to hurry up and go potty, but your puppy would rather play. Be patient, but help your puppy focus on the task at hand by telling him something like, “(Puppy), go potty.” (use his name and whatever word you want to use to make him go.) When he goes, tell him, “good, Puppy!” and give him a treat. If you are consistent and patient, your puppy will learn to go potty when you tell him! Some day when it is raining or cold outside, or you are in a hurry, you will be glad you taught him that command.
Remember, if your puppy has an accident, it’s not the puppy’s fault. It is your fault. You were not paying close enough attention. If your puppy makes a mistake, ignore it. Never rub his nose in it or spank him. That will only make him lose his trust in you, and hide his mistakes from you. It is a lot better to find a mistake out in the open than behind the couch! If you catch him in the act, interrupt him by saying something like, “Aaa Aaa” or "Oh no!” Pick him up and carry him to his potty area and tell him to go there. Only correct your puppy if you catch him in the act. Otherwise, say nothing. Clean up the mess when your puppy is not looking. Make sure you clean the spot with an enzyme cleaning product that neutralizes the odor. Soap is not enough. If you do not remove the odor, the puppy will want to go there again.
All puppies are different. How long it will take before your puppy is completely house trained depends on how attentive you are, how smart he is and how willing he is to learn. It is not appropriate to as an eight-week-old puppy to control his bladder for more than an hour. Expecting him to learn bladder control in a few days is unrealistic. Do not be disappointed if your puppy is eight or nine months old before you can trust him. This is especially true for small breed dogs. And, do not get mad at him if he has a setback after you think he should be trained. Just be patient. Your puppy will be telling you when he needs to go out before you know it!
To
train your dog to go into his crate, put a few treats in the back of it. When
he goes in for the treats, praise him. Don’t shut the door. If he won’t go all
the way in for the treats, put them just inside the door. After a few times of
going in and coming out, shut the door with the dog inside for just a few
seconds. Open the door and praise him. Let the dog get used to being confined
by slowly increasing the time he is inside with the door closed. When he is
comfortable going in and out of the crate, add a command like, “crate” or “go
to bed” when he goes inside. Don’t use the crate to punish the dog. He should
associate it only with comfortable things.
Crates
are useful, but unfortunately, they are sometimes used as long-term confinement.
Too often a dog is crated for his entire life as a substitute for training. Crating
any dog in a portable kennel, but especially a puppy, for eight hours per day
and expecting him to be happy is unrealistic not to mention cruel! If you must
crate your dog, arrange for him to have out-of-crate-breaks with exercise and
play, provide stimulating toys in the crate, and give him something to chew
away any frustration. Crating should be temporary until your dog has learned
enough manners to be trusted alone in the house. Then, unless you install a
doggie door or train your dog to paper or to a litter box, you still should
arrange for your dog to relieve himself outdoors and have a brief playtime.
Why is confinement for eight hours too long? Simply put, eight hours in a crate is too long for a puppy for the same reason that eight hours in a crate would be too long for you. It is tedious, boring and lonely. A puppy will need to potty during those eight hours and cannot hold it. Social isolation and sensory deprivation contribute to behavior problems. To a curious and active puppy, eight hours of being locked up can be frustrating and distressing. A common problem described by owners when a puppy is finally released from the crate is that "he goes nuts.” The puppy is so excited and hyperactive that the owner resorts to punishment (verbal or physical) to make the puppy settle down. It can become a vicious cycle of confinement, isolation, frustration, hyper-excitability, punishment, confinement, isolation. Both the dog and the owner are frustrated.
Adult dogs with nothing to do will usually sleep for hours during the day, but a puppy crated for eight hours is bored, no matter how many toys you put in the crate. Puppies need attention and a variety of stimuli. Dogs are social animals and need contact with other dogs or humans to be well-balanced, happy, good canine citizens. Unfortunately, many people don’t understand the needs of puppies before they acquire them. If you are unable to come home during the day to let the puppy out, or do not have a trusted person who can do it for you, and cannot afford a puppy day care, then it is important that the remainder of the day be spent training, exercising and playing with the puppy. If the puppy is crated at night in addition to during the day, the total number of hours of confinement is well over eight hours.
Many dogs are left alone and crated for eight hours or more every day. That doesn’t mean it the best choice or in the best interest of the dogs. Locking your dog in a crate should be a temporary measure to keep your dog and your belongings safe in the house until he is trained and can be trusted alone.
Barking Barking is part of the “language” of dogs. Dogs bark during play, to greet us, to get our attention, to warn us of intruders, out of boredom or frustration, to keep others away from them and because they are afraid.
Attention Seeking or “Hey, You!”: Barking at you or other people to get your attention. Your dog might want you to feed him or, pet or play with because he is bored. Attention barking is reinforced whenever you give your dog the attention he seeks, even if that attention is telling him to SHUT UP!
Excitement or “Glad to See You!”: Barking as a greeting to familiar people at the door. Some dogs bark a greeting because they are happy and excited that we are home. This type of barking is usually accompanied by panting sounds, a relaxed, open mouth ”happy face”, and low, wagging tail.
Territorial or “Intruder Alert”: Barking at people or other animals when they walk near what your dog considers to be his territory. You might see this type of barking when someone walks by your house or yard, or when a delivery person or even an invited guest, comes your the door. This is normal dog behavior and some dogs are just naturally better watch dogs than others. Preventing a dog from barking to let you know when someone or something has invaded their space can be challenge because the barking is reinforced every time an “intruder” goes away.
Distance Increasing or “Stay Away!”: Barking at people, animals, objects or noises in an effort to keep them at a distance from the dog. Dogs who are barking out of fear bark standing still or leaning back slightly. They tuck their tails and usually back away from what they are barking at. When the dog no longer feels threatened, he stops barking. Dogs who are not afraid, bark while leaning forward slightly. Their tails are up and may or may not be wagging. They move toward what they are barking at.
Anxiety or “Maybe Something Terrible is About To Happen”: Barking and whining usually accompanied by signs of stress such as panting and pacing, often by dogs who are home alone and have separation anxiety. It sounds differently than attention barking and can usually be distinguished from attention seeking if signs of stress begins prior to your departure, destructive chewing occurs at doors and windows and your housetrained dog eliminates in the house when you are gone.
Loose Leash Walking
Teaching loose leash walking is more a contract with your dog than a magic trick. You need to promise that pulling will never work for your dog, and you need to stick with that. The following is a contract you’re going to sign with and for your dog.
Rule #1) If your dog’s leash is connected to her collar, pulling will never work.
Rule #2) If you don’t have time to train, put the dog on a harness so that you’re not breaking your contract and Rule #1. EZ Walk and Sensation harnesses are a good place to start, and will cut down on the pulling and yanking while the dog gets a run in. For running on a long line, be sure to flip the harness upside down (D-ring between the dog’ shoulder blades) to keep the risk of injury low.
Training loose leash walking: Be sure to always connect with your dog – you can’t talk on a cell phone and train! Take a step forward. If the dog moves with you, say “yes!” and either smile at him, pet him or give him a treat – some reward that will be varied frequently. As long as he’s staying near your side, give him frequent feedback by “yes!” and treating him. Try backing up a few skipping steps to keep it interesting, talking to him, notice him.
If your dog pulls ahead, STOP. Wait for him to reconnect with you, and when he does – maybe as small a sign as an ear tipped back to you, or a head turn, or hopefully looking you in the eye, thank him and give him 8 to 12 treats, one after the other while thanking him. You need to be making a real connection with him here – this should not just be about treats.
The dog needs to move toward you to be rewarded. Do not move toward the dog to give him treats!
You can then decide to move ahead in the same direction, sideways, back the way you came – you’re not trying to cover a lot of real estate here when first training. You’re trying to build a habit that says “we go nowhere if you’re pulling on that leash.”
It takes two to have a tight leash. If your dog pulls on the leash, you stay still. Don’t pull back, yank, jerk or tug on the leash. Your job is to maintain safety and guidance, not to be the other end of a tug of war.
Practice this with the leash tied to your waist when it’s safe to do so and in a relatively distraction-free area. You’ll find that much of the pulling might well be happening on your end of that leash.
What worked, what didn’t Week 1: _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I agree that pulling will never work for my dog, that I will only attach leash to collar when I have time to train, that I’ll pay attention to my dog when we are training.
Name: _____________________________________________________ Date: ___________________
Loose Leash Walking Copyright 2008 Marjie Alonso, CPDT, CDBC www.citydogtraining.com Training Director, New England Dog Training Club
